White borscht? Yes, and it's Ukrainian!
Most people around the world are convinced that borscht must always be red. And indeed, red borscht has become the most famous Ukrainian dish and one of the country's defining culinary symbols.
But Ukrainian culinary tradition is far more diverse than that. In some regions of Ukraine, people still make white borscht — a dish that challenges the common assumption of what borscht is "supposed" to look like.
But Ukrainian culinary tradition is far more diverse than that. In some regions of Ukraine, people still make white borscht — a dish that challenges the common assumption of what borscht is "supposed" to look like.
Why is it white?
The name might seem puzzling. White borscht is not a cream soup, nor is it some modern culinary invention. It is one of the regional varieties of Ukrainian borscht, distinguished primarily by its color and ingredients.
Instead of the familiar red table beet, cooks in various localities use light-colored beet varieties — white, pink, fodder, or sugar beets. This is what gives the finished dish its light color, ranging from creamy to golden.
As with many other Ukrainian borschts, the characteristic sourness comes from traditional fermented starters. In white borscht, however, this means kvass made from white beets or a generous amount of sour cream. White borscht also includes potatoes, cabbage, beans, mushrooms, carrots, and onions, and in meat-based versions — pork or beef. Tomatoes and tomato paste are not typically added.
Despite its unusual color, it is still borscht — with the same hallmark combination of tangy flavor, vegetable base, and slow cooking.
That is why, within Ukrainian culinary tradition, white borscht is not considered a separate dish but rather one variety of borscht — just as green borscht or cold borscht are.
Instead of the familiar red table beet, cooks in various localities use light-colored beet varieties — white, pink, fodder, or sugar beets. This is what gives the finished dish its light color, ranging from creamy to golden.
As with many other Ukrainian borschts, the characteristic sourness comes from traditional fermented starters. In white borscht, however, this means kvass made from white beets or a generous amount of sour cream. White borscht also includes potatoes, cabbage, beans, mushrooms, carrots, and onions, and in meat-based versions — pork or beef. Tomatoes and tomato paste are not typically added.
Despite its unusual color, it is still borscht — with the same hallmark combination of tangy flavor, vegetable base, and slow cooking.
That is why, within Ukrainian culinary tradition, white borscht is not considered a separate dish but rather one variety of borscht — just as green borscht or cold borscht are.
Where in Ukraine is white borscht made?
White borscht has never been equally widespread across all of Ukraine. It is most often associated with the culinary traditions of certain areas in Polissia, Podillia, and the Carpathians.
At the same time, even neighboring villages may prepare it differently. In some places the base is sugar or fodder beet, in others it's light varieties of table beet; some add more mushrooms or beans, while others make it without cabbage at all. Like most Ukrainian borschts, white borscht has never had a single canonical recipe.
That diversity is precisely what makes it a living tradition.
At the same time, even neighboring villages may prepare it differently. In some places the base is sugar or fodder beet, in others it's light varieties of table beet; some add more mushrooms or beans, while others make it without cabbage at all. Like most Ukrainian borschts, white borscht has never had a single canonical recipe.
That diversity is precisely what makes it a living tradition.
Is this the same white borscht as in Poland?
No.
Ukrainian white borscht should not be confused with the Polish barszcz biały or żurek. Polish white borscht is made primarily with a rye sourdough starter and belongs to an entirely different culinary tradition.
Ukrainian white borscht developed within the Ukrainian borscht-making tradition and is tied to local beet varieties and regional methods of achieving the dish's characteristic sourness.
Ukrainian white borscht should not be confused with the Polish barszcz biały or żurek. Polish white borscht is made primarily with a rye sourdough starter and belongs to an entirely different culinary tradition.
Ukrainian white borscht developed within the Ukrainian borscht-making tradition and is tied to local beet varieties and regional methods of achieving the dish's characteristic sourness.
Why is Ukrainian white borscht so little known?
White borscht rarely appears on restaurant menus or in tourist guides. Yet it has not disappeared. Many Ukrainian families still make it at home, passing recipes down from parents to children along with their local culinary traditions.
In 2022, the culture of Ukrainian borscht-making was officially inscribed on UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage, but international attention fell primarily on the red variety — the one long recognized by the world as a culinary symbol of Ukraine. White borscht remains in the shadow of that fame, and that is precisely what makes it so valuable for understanding what Ukrainian cuisine truly is: not a set of iconic recipes, but a living, regionally diverse tradition — one where even the most famous dish can turn out to be a completely different color.
If you'd like to try making white borscht yourself, we recommend these recipes: White borscht: two recipes for a traditional Ukrainian dish, White borscht by Yevhen Klopotenko
We've written more about borscht-making traditions here and here.
In 2022, the culture of Ukrainian borscht-making was officially inscribed on UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage, but international attention fell primarily on the red variety — the one long recognized by the world as a culinary symbol of Ukraine. White borscht remains in the shadow of that fame, and that is precisely what makes it so valuable for understanding what Ukrainian cuisine truly is: not a set of iconic recipes, but a living, regionally diverse tradition — one where even the most famous dish can turn out to be a completely different color.
If you'd like to try making white borscht yourself, we recommend these recipes: White borscht: two recipes for a traditional Ukrainian dish, White borscht by Yevhen Klopotenko
We've written more about borscht-making traditions here and here.
Written by
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Iryna Prozhohina
Philologist, Associate Professor, Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv. Researches Ukrainian language and culture, and teaches Ukrainian to foreigners.
Translated by
Mike Svystun
Software developer, entrepreneur.